| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Moppet |
Posted - 03/09/2012 : 00:04:54
I have been considering buying my first rainbow boa for a while now. They're just so pretty and every picture I see makes me want one more!
I already have 2 corn snakes (soon to be 4!) and find them very easy to look after. I have been researching the care for Brazilian Rainbow Boas (I like the look of these the best) and the biggest difference I have found is the requirement for humidity.
Is it easy to maintain high humidity? I have been looking into substrates, vivs (I would be looking for a young snake so I would probably start with a RUB) and misting systems etc.
So, I have some (probably very silly) questions about their requirements.
1. Because of work I am often not at home for long days or occasionally a couple of days at a time. This isn't a problem for the corn snakes as they can just be left to it, but for a brb would it cause issues with humidity? I am prepared to shell out for an automatic misting system if I need to, in order to keep the humidity at the correct levels when I am unable to mist it myself.
2. I have begun looking into where to buy a brb from and I am a little stuck. I will be attending doncaster show at the end of this month. How likely is it I will find a young BRB there? Where else could I get one from? How much would a brb normally cost?
3. Do most people use wooden branches and decorations in the viv despite the high humidity? Do they get mouldy or is it manageable with good a good cleaning regime?
4. Just how time consuming is owning and caring for a brb? Like I said, I have corn snakes which require very little time really. How would a brb compare to them?
5. This is probably the daftest question but the OH has demanded I find out. Does having a high humidity viv make it smell a little? I guessed this could be reduced by regular disinfecting and proper cleaning but I don't really have any experience with high humidity animals.
Wow, that was quite an essay. Well done if you managed to make it to the end without wandering off and finding something more interesting  
Thanks in advance for your replies, I just want to make sure a BRB would get the best care with me before I buy one. |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Snakesitter |
Posted - 17/09/2012 : 22:03:17
Your source was correct: males typically reach around five feet (females six). An alternate name for this species is "slender boa," which refers to the fact they never get very thick around -- most top out at medium rats for food. The combination of those two facts mean Brazilians are never a threat to people. Good luck! |
| IncurableFlirt |
Posted - 16/09/2012 : 16:47:03
Yeah, BRBs are known to be one of the smaller sized boas and aren't really a threat to humans at their full grown size. I am not good with dimensions, but I would definitely go with Snakesitter's suggestion of at least 2 square feet of space for a baby. If a 15x22 container would equal out to roughly 2 feet square (like I said...I suck at dimensions, and math is NOT one of my strong points, lol!), then you would be set! And I think it was Jeff (forgive me if it wasn't, I have a sucky memory!) that mentioned using clear packing tape on the OUTSIDE of the tub to cover extra holes that are letting out too much moisture....so if that is the problem, it could be a really easy solution. :) |
| jeff7377 |
Posted - 16/09/2012 : 14:40:21
BRB's are slender snakes much like your jcp so easily managed by one person. |
| Spugy |
Posted - 16/09/2012 : 06:09:38
Alright.... so I have since been told that snakes only really become "dangerous" (have the potential to be) at about 12 feet. So even an adult BRB should be no issue. :D I finally found a couple of places that sell really large Sterilite containers (my ball python will be happy). Any other suggestions for size for a baby BRB? (perhaps a 15"X22"X6.6" container? Presuming I can maintain humidity with the holes that are already drilled-would test it first). Also wondering if people hand spray their enclosures or if I should look into getting a misting system... |
| Spugy |
Posted - 13/09/2012 : 06:29:21
need to look up all the great information. Good motivation to improve my other equipment too!
Something that I have thought of but would love to hear opinions on is size. I want a male, as they tend to be smaller than females. Average about 5 feet, so the breeder said. This is manageable. How likely is it that I will end up with an 8 footer in several years? Not sure about their girth either. I have a jungle carpet python, which according to her shed, is 4.5 feet. She is relatively thin (much more so than my ball python) so seems much smaller when curled up.
I guess the concern arises from safety. I know that snakes around 5 feet are not a danger to adults at all. At what point does a snake require two people when handling/feeding.... and a locked cage in a separate locked room? I am probably being extreme and not properly appreciating that 5-6 feet isn't a big difference and that a reticulated/Burmese python is a whole other story. I just get the impression that there are some people who are so impressed with large snakes that they become owners without properly appreciatng the cost to feeding and housing such an animal humanly and safely.(Best friend knew someone when he was a kid who housed a 11 foot Burmese in a 4X4 space :( and fed it wild rabbits :( ). |
| Snakesitter |
Posted - 12/09/2012 : 21:04:19
Welcome to the forum, Spugy!
Jenn and Jeff, great advice as always. I have only a few tidbits to add.
For viv size, you should give a bay at least two square feet of floor space, a juvenile four, and adult six…but more is always better. If you go larger, just make sure to add extra hiding places.
When using plexiglass to cover a glass tank’s top, drill only a (very) few holes in the lid at first, as you can easily add more but taking them away is tough.
Substrate is fine to change monthly or even quarterly so long you police it regularly. “Spot clean” it daily (meaning, take out any poops), and smell-test it monthly. Sometimes it will pass, sometimes not -- if the latter, change it. If it stays fresh, change it quarterly regardless.
A longer period of handling will not stress the animal from a temp or humidity standpoint (unless outside in bright summer sun), but may stress it in terms of patience. Listen to what the animals says -- if it spends every moment after ten minutes trying to escape, then put it back! Its tolerance will increase with time and gentle, slow handling.
Good luck! |
| IncurableFlirt |
Posted - 12/09/2012 : 17:32:44
I have not had a problem with any of my UTHs catching fire (though I did worry about the buzzing Zoo Med one and unplugged it immediately, then exchanged it at the store I bought it from for a new one), but it isn't unheard of. The most important thing I can stress to you is that getting a thermostat is a must for each of your heat pads. While you might think they aren't getting too hot, you would be mortified by the temperatures if you ever placed a thermometer over the uncontrolled heat source. You can purchase thermostats that allow several different devices to be plugged into it, or you can go with something as simple as Hydro Farms, which are made for one single heat source. Once you have the heat source controlled, you do not need to worry about it melting most plastics because it turns the heat pad off once it reaches your desired temp.
As to the link you provided, definitely a no. Those dial hygrometer/thermometer units are very unreliable and give you just a general reading of the upper ambient setting. You need a thermometer/hygrometer setup that provides you with a probe that can be placed DIRECTLY over/under the area you are wanting to monitor (aka, where the heat pad will be). My setup has a long probe that I place under my tank, right below the heating pad (I keep my tanks elevated, to promote good airflow for the heat pad) so that I know exactly how hot it is getting in that spot before I allow the thermostat to shut it off. With the hygrometer probe, it goes into the tank and I place it in the middle near the back wall, so I can monitor what my humidity is close to the ground (where Marius will be). For those probes that double as a thermometer/hygrometer, I would suggest keeping it in the tank as close to the heat source as you possibly can.
Now then, even as a baby, I really do think a 5 gallon would be too small. I might be wrong on the dimensions (I am horrible with measurements and whatnot), but I remember Marius as a little tiny baby and I wouldn't have kept him in such a small space. I am hoping that Cliff or CDN can come along and maybe give you some better advice on tub sizes (and tank sizes, too), because I really am bad at that part. I put Marius into a 32 quart Under-Bed Sterilite tub when I first brought him home. He had TONS of room to roam about in, but I also filled up a lot of his space with damp Sphagnum moss, several different hides and an assortment of plastic vine plants. I never had a problem with him not eating or feeling insecure.
Just realized I forgot to mention, here in the States, Zoo-Med products are pretty closely priced with Exo-Terra stuff. Reptile Basics is a lot more expensive on their stuff, but it is really good, quality stuff (as are numerous other reptile supplies stores online). Not that you can't get good quality stuff from Zoo-Med (I use a lot of their products without negative results). As for your Exo-Terra small pad, I don't know what to tell you other than be careful with it. It, too, can overheat if not controlled by a thermostat.
And finally, BRBs are shy snakes, but if you don't see yours out and about after quite a few days, then a welfare check on the critter is definitely in order. Most snakes will remain mostly immobile to digest and whatnot, but the majority of them do get up and explore/move about after that (BRBs are most active during nighttime hours). Plus, if their setups are perfect temp/humidity wise, the snake should move back and forth between hot and cold side to thermoregulate. If you aren't seeing them do this, it is time to check your setup and make sure that your thermometer/hygrometer is working properly and then make certain your snake isn't showing signs of illness or discomfort. :) |
| Spugy |
Posted - 12/09/2012 : 05:44:14
Awesome, thanks everyone! Especially Jeff&Sue and Jenn so far (nice pictures and snakie names Jenn). So is it your personal experience with Exo-terra UTH pads? My friend said they have been known to randomly catch fire-I ask because I just got a tiny one for my leo gecko... he wasn't eating so thought thermal regulation might help. Friend had supplied two Zoo-Med pads, one warms nicely and one gets nastily/burning hot, making my poor leo try to climb the tank! So curious as I have had the reverse experience but now don't trust exo-terra and will not leave the mini pad on if I am not around.
As you say, part of the process is stetting up a home in advance. If I purchase a pad myself and it doesn't work, I can get a replacement in time for the new addition to the family XD. Budgeting is good but the babies aren't even laid yet, so I have time to set things up gradually (Any way to check out a breeder's reputation? This one is local and has been helpful so far. Certainly not a big fan of pet stores).
Reptile Basics seems to offer reasonably priced UTH pads as well as RBI Radiant Heat Panels, at least they list their prices ;) which I can't see on Zoo Med's site. In any case, might be getting a new mini lizard sized one when I actually order... Hygrometer, thermostat and perhaps a thermometer if not part of the thermostat-got it. I see what you mean about price, though. Although I can see no ZooMed prices, their equipment looks to be about $20-$30 (analogue thermometer and huimidity gauge) versus Reptile Basics which would run $100 for each! So this, I am guessing, would work:
http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/EntryDetail.php?
EntryID=171&DatabaseID=2&SearchID=1&SearchContext=YTo1OntzOjQ6IlBhZ2UiO3M6MToiMSI7czo4OiJTZWFyY2hJRCI7czoxOiIxIjtzOjEwOiJEYXRhYmFzZUlEIjtzOjE6IjIiO3M6NzoiSGVhZGluZyI7czo5OiJUZXJyYXJpdW0iO3M6MTU6IlByb2R1Y3RDYXRlZ29yeSI7czo3OiJIZWF0aW5nIjt9
Hmmm, I was thinking 5 gallon only as snake was small... trust me, I see how quickly snakes grow! I also am aware that you have to get an appropriately sized tank as not to stress the animal. so a square foot for each foot of snake, as a general rule? Hmm, wonder how this applies to a baby... I like your Sterilite idea... two of the snakes arrived in one of these and I am currently drilling holes in another to give my king snake a larger home... but is there not a danger with UTH pads and the plastic? (asking because I am experimenting with infa red bulbs on other tanks and my light seriously distorted the plastic of my ball python's enclosure). Also, ZooMed states not to use their pads underneath plastic or acrylic :(
I like your cleaning, Jenn. Sounds like me. I use paper towel and spot clean... when they poop I usually take them out, wipe up the mess, and sterilize with alcohol (I wait until all the smell evaporates before placing the animal back in). I tend to not wash tanks often, but not require humidity except during sheds. I will play with substrates. Want my new one to be able to burrow and feel safe, but would like to see him occasionally too! Maybe I won't, though. I am okay with boring environments. When I first got the snakes, I was incensed at how "boring" their homes were. The one arboreal one has stuff to climb. Otherwise, snake psychology dictates the importance of a good hide, decorations seem important for the human.
So I think that answers my questions! I will have to be VERY strict with myself about handling. The good thing is, I will not be willing to let a baby wander off (I ignore my ball python when she crawls off of me and finds somewhere near by to hide, just keep an eye on her). But yeah, short and consistent handling helps them acclimatize to humans. I am not a predator, really.
Thanks so much. Got some work ahead of me :D
PS I know they are shy, to the EXTREME, but my friend also told me a story about how she knew someone with a BRB who didn't realize it had died until it began to smell because of it's tendency to hide.... responses to this?
|
| jeff7377 |
Posted - 11/09/2012 : 20:22:26
Welcome. I think Jenn covered everything. Her and I have almost the same set up except I have a glass front opening viv with a screen top but it is modified. I cut plexiglass, sealed it in place over the screen and the drilled my vent holes. I also covered the back and sides with backround paper for more privacy. BRB's can be very shy. Make sure to give them plenty of hides and give them more time to settle in. Also, they love to burrow and hide in there substrate. I use cypress mulch. I maintanes humidity well and give my Peanut a place to burrow, play, and hide. Thats just some things that work for me. Good luck. You will love the species. There are very beautiful.
Jeff&Sue |
| IncurableFlirt |
Posted - 11/09/2012 : 05:55:04
Hi Spugy, welcome to TRBF! :) Thanks so much for taking the time to come here and ask questions and learn all you can before diving into the care of an RB. To answer your first question, UTH stands for Under-Tank Heater. Exo-Terra pads (IMHO) are terrible. They are known for not working very well or for over-working and causing too much heat. I recommend going with the Zoo Med ones (if you're budgeting) or you could try some of the more higher quality ones from places like Reptile Basics. I have been using Zoo Med ones for a long time now and have only had one that had an issue (and it was noticeable within the first few minutes of plugging it in...it made a severe buzzing noise). Some people use Flexwatt heat tape with even better results than UTHs (I use Flexwatt on my rack and it works perfectly).
Now then, with the heating method out of the way, you will definitely need to get two very, very important pieces for your setup: A thermostat (to regulate your heat) and a hygrometer (to monitor your humidity levels). Thermostats can be a little pricey if you get the higher quality ones, but there are also some on the lower end that work very well (I use the Zoo Med ReptiTherm 500R, only bad thing is it doesn't include a thermometer, so I had to buy one of those separately). Both of these really can make the difference in your RB's comfort and health, so I highly suggest you get them and set them up long before you get your snake, to make certain all settings are where they need to be and are holding steady.
A 5 gallon tank is really going to be too small for your RB. It may work as a temporary home, but I actually recommend that you look to maybe getting a plastic tub (like the kind that Sterilite makes) to use. It is a TON easier to maintain the humidity requirements, easier to clean up and they are also relatively cheap! As for sizing, that would be a matter for someone else to mention, because I always have trouble remembering which sizes (quart-wise) work best. As far as substrate goes, people use different things. I, personally, use orchid bark, but you can also use paper towels, newspaper, cypress mulch, Eco-Earth (coconut husk), plantation soil and I've even heard of some people using what is called Forest Floor (which I think is a mixture of woods). As long as it holds humidity well and you are happy with it, you're good! :) I, personally, didn't like the Eco-Earth because my Marius was an avid burrower and it became increasingly hard to find his poopies to spot clean, lol. As to the mold build up, this is what I do. And let me specify, I am slightly phobic about mold, so I might be a little more harsh than others would be. I do not use ANYTHING in Marius' enclosure except for glass and plastic (with the exception of his orchid bark substrate), this doesn't make a very aesthetic setting, but you can spruce it up with plastic plants and vines, etc. I spot clean his tank every week (usually a few days after eating, because that's when he poo's) and then I do a deep cleaning and remove all substrate to replace with new every month. During his clean-out, I wash all of his hides and water dishes in a soapy solution and allow them to air dry. I luckily haven't had any trouble with mold growth, which is good because the stuff gives me the heebee jeebees. :D
As to handling, if you get a baby, short handling sessions often is really the best way to go (10-15 mins maybe every day, except the couple days after food). Once they get some size on them and are comfortable with you and eating well...I believe it is safe to bump up your handling time. Marius is just about 3 years old, and I handle him for about 20-30 minutes every other day (except digestion days) and he tolerates it very, very well. So, I hope that I have answered at least some of your questions, and I expect that our wonderful experts will come along and give their advice as well. Best of luck, and let us know if you have anything else you're curious about! ;) |
| Spugy |
Posted - 11/09/2012 : 02:34:41
So this looks nice and recent so I would like to fire off some of my own questions which you wonderful snake lovers will help me with. I too am in love with the gorgeous BRB hues-the red and iridescence! Saw my first live one last week, an adorable baby!
I inherited some snakes about a year ago, was supposed to care for them for a friend. Long story later and one is officially mine (the ball python) but I am happily caring for a jungle carpet python and a king snake. The owner didn't supply me with much in the way of heating pads/lights and am probably amiss with my lack of temperature gradients (one of the heating mats hardly heats at all and the other becomes scorching). Fortunately, even in the winter, I keep the ambient temperature high enough that all the snakes are healthy. BRB are another story. I am hoping to purchase a baby in the spring which means I need everything set up (and tested to get rid of bugs).
What is UTH? wondering if there is better or poorer equipment out there? I would rather purchase good equipment once, especially since it is so important for the health of the animal. I just bought a mini heating pad for my gecko and then was told that ext-terra pads are terrible. So any recommendations to regulate humidity or temperature would be muchly appreciated! Details are welcome!
I understand that humidity is crucial, especially for babies. I have a 5 gallon glass tank (with silly mesh lid I could partially cover with something like Saran wrap? Ideas on how to make tops that prevent escape of snake and humidity but allow adequate air exchange?). I have heard that glass is a poor idea... so both cypress mulch and orchid bark are good for BRB? I know for most reptiles you have to be extremely careful about the substrate as some woods (cedar) are toxic to the animals. How does the dried coconut husk stuff work? Also curious whether ALL the substrate needs to be disposed of each week to prevent bacteria and mould build up. And also a bit confused about a heating pad under the tank (which would then have to be glass if it weren't to melt)... if there is moist substrate over top, would the heating pad supply enough heat for the snake to thermal regulate?
One last, very important question.... snakes that are regularly handled are much more easy going towards people. Boas can have awesomely wonderful temperaments... so how much handling is a good balance for a baby BRB? They seem to need such specific heat and humidity requirements that I wouldn't want to have a baby out for an hour or anything, but I would also hope to handle him (I would prefer a male-cheaper and grow to a slightly shorter length) every day except the two days after feeding and probably the day or two before so that he wasn't stressed.
And Moppet thought she wrote an essay ;) When do we see pictures Moppet? |
| Moppet |
Posted - 10/09/2012 : 22:53:41
Thanks guys. Nice to see so many familiar people from the corn snake forum on here too  |
| smart bunny |
Posted - 10/09/2012 : 22:51:02
*waves hi to Moppet*  |
| Moppet |
Posted - 07/09/2012 : 07:16:16
Thanks for all the help I shall be waiting until the Doncaster show at least so that I can prepare for the possible new arrival and work on the OH letting me have 'ANOTHER snake?!?!' haha.
|
| IncurableFlirt |
Posted - 07/09/2012 : 01:35:17
I see that I have been very absent lately and missed our newcomer. :) Welcome to the forum! You've already received some of the best advice around, so all I will say is this: When you get your baby, we need pics! :D ;) Enjoy your stay here and thank you so much for wanting to learn about the care of these wonderful creatures! |
|
|
