| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| BC420 |
Posted - 24/04/2012 : 04:09:34
what do you guys use when it comes to controlling the humidity in ur viv? Foggers, misting, ect. it seems like it would be time consuming to constantly watching the humidity in the enclosure, and managing to keep it around 75-80%. And if you use a fogger, do you have it set up on a timer, or a another "switch" that acts the way a thermostat does?
Also, how do you manage to keep the ambient temps that high without a bulb ( rainbows don't like light?) ?
Does thermal blocking become an issue for adult rainbows on heat mats, even though they don't get as big or thick as your average boa? |
| 8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Snakesitter |
Posted - 25/04/2012 : 23:13:46
Exactly! :-) |
| BC420 |
Posted - 25/04/2012 : 22:25:17
So what your saying is, even if my ambient is 75 in the warm end, and 80-82 on the mat, I'm fine? As long as none of my temps go over 85.
Makes a lot of sense. If he gets to cool, he will find his mat. As long as my ambients arnt too hot or too cold he will thrive. |
| Snakesitter |
Posted - 25/04/2012 : 20:37:23
The warm end temp should be on the basking surface, not the ambient temp. The ambient temp will be lower throughout the cage. |
| BC420 |
Posted - 24/04/2012 : 23:40:34
I can't see it being possible to have an ambient any higher that 75 on the warm end with just a heat mat. It only heats the glass, not the air around it. Even if I insulated the glass, I can't see it helping much. Is it necessary to have an ambient of 82 degrees on the warm end, or is it more of an issue getting to hot? |
| Snakesitter |
Posted - 24/04/2012 : 23:25:07
Ambient is always important. Remember, rainbows like it cool...exposure to temps of higher than 85 with no escape can and will kill them. The room temp, ideally, should be in the mid to low 70s, witha hot spot of 82.
I never use foggers, but know several forum members have done so with great success...I'll leave it to them to comment and advise. |
| BC420 |
Posted - 24/04/2012 : 23:21:16
Also, I have a fogger from about a year ago when I decided I will one day own a rainbow. I really want to use this as it looks bada**. I'll just throw it on a timer for 5 mins an hour or what ever it takes to keep my humidity between 70-80%. Have it off all night as humidity stays relatively consistent at night. That sound alright, or is it best to scrap it all together. Reminds me of that saying "kiss" keep it simple stupid |
| BC420 |
Posted - 24/04/2012 : 23:15:06
That is very much appreciated. I have a few zoomed mats kickin around I'll use one of those. Since I love to watch my snakes, and have them set up a a "display". So i will be using glass... I will fabricate a flexiglass lid.
I have to order a stat. Was looking at "reptitherm r500" stat. Anyone have any opinions on these? I have one for my corn and have yet to have an issue.
Other than that, I guess just let the enclosure do it's own work. With repti bark mixed with Eco earth, moss hide, limited ventilation and just a heat mat under the glass and I should be fine.
My only other issue is ambient temps. Is ambient important if your using a mat?
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| Snakesitter |
Posted - 24/04/2012 : 20:54:04
Let's tackle heat first. In addition to generating light, bulbs also dry the air...and thus pose two large disadvantages for this species. Most people use either undercage heat, such as flexwatt, or a radiant heat panel.
For humidity, the undercage heating choice really helps. I place a large, low water bowl partly over that heat. The combination of a large surface area and heat promotes evaporation. Using a humidity-retaining substrate also helps, as if you spray it once or twice a week it will slowly release that moisture back into the air. Finally, using a moist hide (usually packed with moss) is a must, as that gives the snake a safe, high-humidity place to retreat to.
All of this will come to nothing, however, if you fail to limit air exchange with the outside world. Brazilians do best in containers with limited ventilation, as it keeps that hard-won humidity from seeping out into the room. Screen tops are therefore a no-no.
I've never heard of thermal blocking being a concern with Brazilians.
I hope this helps, |
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