The Rainbow Boa Forum
The Rainbow Boa Forum
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
 All Forums
 Rainbow Boa Posts
 Rainbow Boa Health
 Feeding issues :(

Note: You must be registered in order to post a reply.
To register, click here. Registration is FREE!

Screensize:
UserName:
Password:
Format Mode:
Format: BoldItalicizedUnderlineStrikethrough Align LeftCenteredAlign Right Horizontal Rule Insert HyperlinkInsert EmailInsert Image Insert CodeInsert QuoteInsert List
   
Message:

* HTML is OFF
* Forum Code is ON
Smilies
Smile [:)] Big Smile [:D] Cool [8D] Blush [:I]
Tongue [:P] Evil [):] Wink [;)] Clown [:o)]
Black Eye [B)] Eight Ball [8] Frown [:(] Shy [8)]
Shocked [:0] Angry [:(!] Dead [xx(] Sleepy [|)]
Kisses [:X] Approve [^] Disapprove [V] Question [?]

 
   

T O P I C    R E V I E W
jenna22 Posted - 06/08/2011 : 16:34:00
hey, i was wondering if anyone could help. I recently brought my rainbow boa from the Kidderminster show and he is a year old quite long and very skinny!! Ive tried feeding him for 3 weeks now but he just ignores the mice and tries to avoid them when put in front of his face. the temps of the viv are 31c (hot) and around 24c (cold) to keep the hot end at 30c the cool end auto goes to 24c... yet people tell me it should be 21c in the cold end.

I spray the viv with water every morning so the viv mists up.

I wonder if he could be a non- feeder :(
13   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Snakesitter Posted - 09/08/2011 : 19:30:44
I agree with Graeme. If you stop treatment now, you pretty much guarantee they *will* be back.

Re feeding, it may have been the fur. I've owned several rainbow that turn up their noses at anything that does not come with a coat of fur.
gmac Posted - 09/08/2011 : 16:30:24
good on the feeding, however it is best to keep with the mite treatment for another 3-4 weeks to make sure they are gone
jenna22 Posted - 09/08/2011 : 16:26:53
He finally ate last night, i tried him with a rat pup and he seemed very keen. I cannot tell if all the mites are gone, ive only managed to find one adult on him which was a few days ago, since them i bath him regularly, bar today as he ate last night. No mites have been found on his tissue paper or water bowl. So hopefully they have gone, but i guess have to wait for tomorrows bath to see if any black dots come off him. People have been saying to use oil as well, so i might try that tomorrow.
CDN_Blood Posted - 09/08/2011 : 01:16:31
quote:
Originally posted by sandi

Over here the equivalent of Nix is lyclear. I have used this and it worked, in fact its the only thing that worked. Let me know if you want my method and i will post it here.



Ah-HA! It'd probably be helpful to many folks out there if you posted that Sandi. I always feel like I can't help from way over here with my Canadian versions of things
Markni Posted - 08/08/2011 : 21:34:31
Just how long and skinny? As said above... BRBs are quite slim compared to normal boas etc. You could have a look at all the pics on other forum topics, and hopefully this could give you a good idea of weather the snake is skinny?

Snakesitter Posted - 08/08/2011 : 21:07:34
Jenna, whoever was feeding a yearling rainbow only one or twice a month was underfeeding the animal. My babies (up to one year) eat *every* week they are interested (and that I'm actually home to feed them!). This is gradually scaled down over time. Only when an animal reaches full adult size (three years and up), however, are they cut back to only once every three weeks. That said, a healthy rainbow is generally thin by nature. An alternate name for the species is the "slender boa," so (without seeing pictures) thin is normal.

As was indicated above, the mites are probably the issue. You might consider offering a small live mouse *once* just to get some food in him, but otherwise concentrate on the mites first. If you can get it, "Provent-a-Mite" works well.

Good luck!
sandi Posted - 08/08/2011 : 20:47:35
Over here the equivalent of Nix is lyclear. I have used this and it worked, in fact its the only thing that worked. Let me know if you want my method and i will post it here.
CDN_Blood Posted - 08/08/2011 : 12:25:44
It's just a normal head lice shampoo/creme rinse. You could always try an online search to see if people are using whatever you can get for that in your area, and what ratio of the product to water they're using. DO NOT USE A PRODUCT LIKE THIS IN FULL STRENGTH ON A REPTILE - it must be diluted.

The ratio we use for Nix is 59 mL product to 4 L water. You can see how much that product needs to be diluted to be safe for use on reptiles.
jenna22 Posted - 08/08/2011 : 11:11:09
No we don't have any nix over here, is it just a normal head lice treatment or is it a mild form? Do you think any head lice shampoo would work?
CDN_Blood Posted - 08/08/2011 : 02:19:45
quote:
Originally posted by gmac
also the mites may also be enough to put your boa off its foods.



Absolutely. For every few mites that you see, there are many more that you don't

The original thread mentions that the snake is 'very skinny'. Let's hope the mite situation hasn't been going on so long that the snake has been decimated. If left untreated by the previous owner for an extended period of time, it could be in a very weakened state.

In Canada the most common mite treatment is a carefully diluted Nix solution. Nix is actually a lice shampoo but it's very effective if used properly. I don't know how readily available it may be elsewhere.

Of course mites travel, so not only does the snake need to be treated, but the enclosure, everything in the enclosure (except the substrate, which should be trashed) as well as a good radius around the enclosure (the shelf it may be sitting on, the wall behind it, the floor underneath it, etc. if you want to get these things in-check. When dealing with mites, there is almost always a 2nd batch that will pop-up just when you think you've got it under control, so one must pay very close attention.

I hope everything works out for you!
gmac Posted - 08/08/2011 : 00:44:27
Is best not to tap snakes with their food particulaly on the face, most dont appreciate it and will shy away as they feel under threat.

as for the mites have a look through this thread from our sister site for dealing with mites.

http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7957 but something that snakesitter did pick up on this thread rainbows like to have a drink first so let it st in the water for 5-10 minutes to have a drink before adding into the oil bath,

also the mites may also be enough to put your boa off its foods.
jenna22 Posted - 07/08/2011 : 22:11:02
he is housed in a quite a large viv, with a ceramic lamp for heating plus pulse thermostat to regulate temps also has a thermometer to monitor temps. The records of feeding show one or twice every month. Stated small mice to feed with. No shedding dates. However we currently discovered a mite problem, not many just a few. so we are using callingtons, however mites are still there, we have bathed him several times and a few black dots appear in the water. Any ideas how to clear the infestation quicker? viv only has kitchen roll and water bowl in.

feeding method is to heat up mouse under heat lamp after defrosting. then to take him out of the viv and wave or tap him on the nose with it, he then avoids at all cost and tries to get away.
gmac Posted - 06/08/2011 : 18:31:38
i wouldnt be classing him as a non feeder yet 3 weeks is not such a long period. What method do you use to offer feed, also if you can give us some details on the housing what you use to heat and regulate the temps in the housing. did you get any records from the seller showing feeding and shedding dates, and were you informed how he had fed the snake?

the first thing I would be doing is making sure the mouse head is very very warm but not hot enough to burn the snake and offer that to it. But dont just put it on front of its face right away, start a bit away and work closer slowly.

Oh and welcome along to the forum


The Rainbow Boa Forum © 2000-08 TheRainbowBoa.co.uk Go To Top Of Page
Snitz Forums 2000