| Author |
 Topic  |
|
Moppet
New Member
United Kingdom
60 Posts |
 Posted - 03/09/2012 : 00:04:54
|
I have been considering buying my first rainbow boa for a while now. They're just so pretty and every picture I see makes me want one more!
I already have 2 corn snakes (soon to be 4!) and find them very easy to look after. I have been researching the care for Brazilian Rainbow Boas (I like the look of these the best) and the biggest difference I have found is the requirement for humidity.
Is it easy to maintain high humidity? I have been looking into substrates, vivs (I would be looking for a young snake so I would probably start with a RUB) and misting systems etc.
So, I have some (probably very silly) questions about their requirements.
1. Because of work I am often not at home for long days or occasionally a couple of days at a time. This isn't a problem for the corn snakes as they can just be left to it, but for a brb would it cause issues with humidity? I am prepared to shell out for an automatic misting system if I need to, in order to keep the humidity at the correct levels when I am unable to mist it myself.
2. I have begun looking into where to buy a brb from and I am a little stuck. I will be attending doncaster show at the end of this month. How likely is it I will find a young BRB there? Where else could I get one from? How much would a brb normally cost?
3. Do most people use wooden branches and decorations in the viv despite the high humidity? Do they get mouldy or is it manageable with good a good cleaning regime?
4. Just how time consuming is owning and caring for a brb? Like I said, I have corn snakes which require very little time really. How would a brb compare to them?
5. This is probably the daftest question but the OH has demanded I find out. Does having a high humidity viv make it smell a little? I guessed this could be reduced by regular disinfecting and proper cleaning but I don't really have any experience with high humidity animals.
Wow, that was quite an essay. Well done if you managed to make it to the end without wandering off and finding something more interesting  
Thanks in advance for your replies, I just want to make sure a BRB would get the best care with me before I buy one. |
|
|
jeff7377
New Member
USA
76 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2012 : 09:26:58
|
| Welcome, BRB's are not hard at all. Just remember no screen tops (unless you cover them with glass or plastic). Use good moister retaining substrate such as cypress mulch. Get digital thermometer and hydrometer. UTH for heat. Water bowl with large surface area and some hides. Oh and read every thread that you can on this forum. Get your rub or viv up and running before you get your snake. That way you can work out any bugs. My viv never drops below 85% humidity and I may spray once or twice a week. |
 |
|
|
Blackcat
Hatchling
United Kingdom
341 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2012 : 11:27:49
|
Can't agree more with what jeff has said 
As you will probably know from keeping corns a good thermostat is a must to control your temperature.
Moss hides are also essential in my eyes.
I haven't noticed any difference in 'smell' from my corns - but then I have a rubbish sense of smell.
Wooden decoration is very prone to go mouldy in the high humidity - I have resin ornaments designed for fish tanks, solves the mould problem and easy to clean.
Try looking in the classifieds on RFUK for baby BRB's, then contact the seller and see if they are going to Doncaster.
Be aware BRB's are usually very secretive and most active after dusk.
I have both BRB's and CRB's (fell in love with the look of BRB's like yourself) but if you want the truth I actually prefer my CRB's (sorry Cliff )
They are far more interactive and come out to see what I am doing almost demanding to be out of their RUBS 
As a last reply they are probably a little more time consuming as I give them a 'full' clean more frquently than my corns due to my worry of 'nasties' growing in the higher humidity.
Here ends my 'essay' of a reply. |
1.1.0 BRB's 0.0.2 CRB's
0.1.2 Corn Snakes
1.0.0 House snake
0.1.0 Crested Gecko |
|
|
|
jeff7377
New Member
USA
76 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2012 : 13:16:18
|
| Very true on being secretive!!!! I have red LED lighting in my viv just so I can sneak in and watch Peanut play....at around midnight..... |
|
|
|
Moppet
New Member
United Kingdom
60 Posts |
Posted - 03/09/2012 : 17:37:52
|
Thanks guys. I was thinking cypress mulch and heat pad as I had heard that heat lamps etc can make humidity very difficult to maintain. Which decorations are suitable for climbing on without using wood? I've seen the vines you can get but are they thick enough for an adult brb?
I had heard that they were nocturnal and very secretive snakes but they're just so pretty that I don't mind! It will make seeing them out and about all the more exciting haha. Besides, my corn snake Apollo is pretty secretive himself, I can count on one hand the number of times I have seen him out of his hides (in nearly 4 months!) and it is normally in the middle of the night and just a tail disappearing back into the hide because he has spotted me watching. He's shy.
What sort of size viv would I be looking at for an adult brb? I have read that they need to have some height to them so that the snake can climb if they want to. Also, is cohabitation generally frowned upon like with corn snakes? How long does it take a brb to reach an adult size?
Just seen some gorgeous brbs on RFUK. Way too tempting haha, maybe time to start working on OH to let me get one as it might take a while. He isn't a snake fan and thinks four corns are enough for this year... |
|
|
|
Snakesitter
Rainbow Master
USA
2718 Posts |
Posted - 04/09/2012 : 02:20:20
|
Hi Moppet! Congratulations of researching your first rainbow before taking the plunge.
To answer your questions:
Maintaining humidity is not hard provided you set your viv up right. That means providing a large, flat water bowl to maximize surface area; placing the bowl partly over the heat to encourage evaporation; using a humidity-retaining substrate such as orchid bark; providing a moist moss hide; and limiting ventilation/air exchange with the outside room (as Jeff said, no screen tops -- ever!).
An absence of a few days should be fine. Just make sure to spot-check the viv before you go off, as well as do a water change and mist the substrate. If you will be gone longer than three days I’d have a friend pop in and check to make sure all is well..
Brazilians vary in price depending on source and country. In the US, they average $150-200, with lower-quality or show specimens down to $100, and high-end or top breeder line specimens going for $300 or more. Be careful of the low-priced one: those come with extra risks, usually because of the show environment or because they are being sold by a non-specialist whose only means to compete is price.
I void wood in the viv, but some people have managed to do fine with it. Just pre-treat and wooden surfaces and keep a close eye on them for mold.
Brazilians will take more time than a corn. That said, they take much less than cat, dog, or really any other pet.
LOL…no, in my experience, so long as you keep the tank clean, the extra humidity has no, um, sensory effect.
I’ve seen plastic vines used for climbing, as well as shelves. Keep in mind thought hat Brazilians will become increasingly terrestrial as they age – babies do climb, but adults spend most of their time on the ground!
An adult Brazilians should have at least six square feet of floor space. More is always better.
I hope this helps, and good luck! |
Cliff Earle
Living Gems Reptiles
Premium Brazilian Rainbow Boas from a disease-tested facility
Website, Facebook |
|
|
|
IncurableFlirt
Yearling
USA
516 Posts |
Posted - 07/09/2012 : 01:35:17
|
| I see that I have been very absent lately and missed our newcomer. :) Welcome to the forum! You've already received some of the best advice around, so all I will say is this: When you get your baby, we need pics! :D ;) Enjoy your stay here and thank you so much for wanting to learn about the care of these wonderful creatures! |
Jenn.
11.8 Ball pythons
1.0 BCI boa
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow boa |
|
|
|
Moppet
New Member
United Kingdom
60 Posts |
Posted - 07/09/2012 : 07:16:16
|
Thanks for all the help I shall be waiting until the Doncaster show at least so that I can prepare for the possible new arrival and work on the OH letting me have 'ANOTHER snake?!?!' haha.
|
|
|
|
smart bunny
Hatchling
174 Posts |
Posted - 10/09/2012 : 22:51:02
|
| *waves hi to Moppet* |
     |
|
|
|
Moppet
New Member
United Kingdom
60 Posts |
Posted - 10/09/2012 : 22:53:41
|
| Thanks guys. Nice to see so many familiar people from the corn snake forum on here too |
|
|
|
Spugy
Snake mite
Canada
24 Posts |
Posted - 11/09/2012 : 02:34:41
|
So this looks nice and recent so I would like to fire off some of my own questions which you wonderful snake lovers will help me with. I too am in love with the gorgeous BRB hues-the red and iridescence! Saw my first live one last week, an adorable baby!
I inherited some snakes about a year ago, was supposed to care for them for a friend. Long story later and one is officially mine (the ball python) but I am happily caring for a jungle carpet python and a king snake. The owner didn't supply me with much in the way of heating pads/lights and am probably amiss with my lack of temperature gradients (one of the heating mats hardly heats at all and the other becomes scorching). Fortunately, even in the winter, I keep the ambient temperature high enough that all the snakes are healthy. BRB are another story. I am hoping to purchase a baby in the spring which means I need everything set up (and tested to get rid of bugs).
What is UTH? wondering if there is better or poorer equipment out there? I would rather purchase good equipment once, especially since it is so important for the health of the animal. I just bought a mini heating pad for my gecko and then was told that ext-terra pads are terrible. So any recommendations to regulate humidity or temperature would be muchly appreciated! Details are welcome!
I understand that humidity is crucial, especially for babies. I have a 5 gallon glass tank (with silly mesh lid I could partially cover with something like Saran wrap? Ideas on how to make tops that prevent escape of snake and humidity but allow adequate air exchange?). I have heard that glass is a poor idea... so both cypress mulch and orchid bark are good for BRB? I know for most reptiles you have to be extremely careful about the substrate as some woods (cedar) are toxic to the animals. How does the dried coconut husk stuff work? Also curious whether ALL the substrate needs to be disposed of each week to prevent bacteria and mould build up. And also a bit confused about a heating pad under the tank (which would then have to be glass if it weren't to melt)... if there is moist substrate over top, would the heating pad supply enough heat for the snake to thermal regulate?
One last, very important question.... snakes that are regularly handled are much more easy going towards people. Boas can have awesomely wonderful temperaments... so how much handling is a good balance for a baby BRB? They seem to need such specific heat and humidity requirements that I wouldn't want to have a baby out for an hour or anything, but I would also hope to handle him (I would prefer a male-cheaper and grow to a slightly shorter length) every day except the two days after feeding and probably the day or two before so that he wasn't stressed.
And Moppet thought she wrote an essay ;) When do we see pictures Moppet? |
|
|
|
IncurableFlirt
Yearling
USA
516 Posts |
Posted - 11/09/2012 : 05:55:04
|
Hi Spugy, welcome to TRBF! :) Thanks so much for taking the time to come here and ask questions and learn all you can before diving into the care of an RB. To answer your first question, UTH stands for Under-Tank Heater. Exo-Terra pads (IMHO) are terrible. They are known for not working very well or for over-working and causing too much heat. I recommend going with the Zoo Med ones (if you're budgeting) or you could try some of the more higher quality ones from places like Reptile Basics. I have been using Zoo Med ones for a long time now and have only had one that had an issue (and it was noticeable within the first few minutes of plugging it in...it made a severe buzzing noise). Some people use Flexwatt heat tape with even better results than UTHs (I use Flexwatt on my rack and it works perfectly).
Now then, with the heating method out of the way, you will definitely need to get two very, very important pieces for your setup: A thermostat (to regulate your heat) and a hygrometer (to monitor your humidity levels). Thermostats can be a little pricey if you get the higher quality ones, but there are also some on the lower end that work very well (I use the Zoo Med ReptiTherm 500R, only bad thing is it doesn't include a thermometer, so I had to buy one of those separately). Both of these really can make the difference in your RB's comfort and health, so I highly suggest you get them and set them up long before you get your snake, to make certain all settings are where they need to be and are holding steady.
A 5 gallon tank is really going to be too small for your RB. It may work as a temporary home, but I actually recommend that you look to maybe getting a plastic tub (like the kind that Sterilite makes) to use. It is a TON easier to maintain the humidity requirements, easier to clean up and they are also relatively cheap! As for sizing, that would be a matter for someone else to mention, because I always have trouble remembering which sizes (quart-wise) work best. As far as substrate goes, people use different things. I, personally, use orchid bark, but you can also use paper towels, newspaper, cypress mulch, Eco-Earth (coconut husk), plantation soil and I've even heard of some people using what is called Forest Floor (which I think is a mixture of woods). As long as it holds humidity well and you are happy with it, you're good! :) I, personally, didn't like the Eco-Earth because my Marius was an avid burrower and it became increasingly hard to find his poopies to spot clean, lol. As to the mold build up, this is what I do. And let me specify, I am slightly phobic about mold, so I might be a little more harsh than others would be. I do not use ANYTHING in Marius' enclosure except for glass and plastic (with the exception of his orchid bark substrate), this doesn't make a very aesthetic setting, but you can spruce it up with plastic plants and vines, etc. I spot clean his tank every week (usually a few days after eating, because that's when he poo's) and then I do a deep cleaning and remove all substrate to replace with new every month. During his clean-out, I wash all of his hides and water dishes in a soapy solution and allow them to air dry. I luckily haven't had any trouble with mold growth, which is good because the stuff gives me the heebee jeebees. :D
As to handling, if you get a baby, short handling sessions often is really the best way to go (10-15 mins maybe every day, except the couple days after food). Once they get some size on them and are comfortable with you and eating well...I believe it is safe to bump up your handling time. Marius is just about 3 years old, and I handle him for about 20-30 minutes every other day (except digestion days) and he tolerates it very, very well. So, I hope that I have answered at least some of your questions, and I expect that our wonderful experts will come along and give their advice as well. Best of luck, and let us know if you have anything else you're curious about! ;) |
Jenn.
11.8 Ball pythons
1.0 BCI boa
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow boa |
|
|
|
jeff7377
New Member
USA
76 Posts |
Posted - 11/09/2012 : 20:22:26
|
Welcome. I think Jenn covered everything. Her and I have almost the same set up except I have a glass front opening viv with a screen top but it is modified. I cut plexiglass, sealed it in place over the screen and the drilled my vent holes. I also covered the back and sides with backround paper for more privacy. BRB's can be very shy. Make sure to give them plenty of hides and give them more time to settle in. Also, they love to burrow and hide in there substrate. I use cypress mulch. I maintanes humidity well and give my Peanut a place to burrow, play, and hide. Thats just some things that work for me. Good luck. You will love the species. There are very beautiful.
Jeff&Sue |
|
|
|
Spugy
Snake mite
Canada
24 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2012 : 05:44:14
|
Awesome, thanks everyone! Especially Jeff&Sue and Jenn so far (nice pictures and snakie names Jenn). So is it your personal experience with Exo-terra UTH pads? My friend said they have been known to randomly catch fire-I ask because I just got a tiny one for my leo gecko... he wasn't eating so thought thermal regulation might help. Friend had supplied two Zoo-Med pads, one warms nicely and one gets nastily/burning hot, making my poor leo try to climb the tank! So curious as I have had the reverse experience but now don't trust exo-terra and will not leave the mini pad on if I am not around.
As you say, part of the process is stetting up a home in advance. If I purchase a pad myself and it doesn't work, I can get a replacement in time for the new addition to the family XD. Budgeting is good but the babies aren't even laid yet, so I have time to set things up gradually (Any way to check out a breeder's reputation? This one is local and has been helpful so far. Certainly not a big fan of pet stores).
Reptile Basics seems to offer reasonably priced UTH pads as well as RBI Radiant Heat Panels, at least they list their prices ;) which I can't see on Zoo Med's site. In any case, might be getting a new mini lizard sized one when I actually order... Hygrometer, thermostat and perhaps a thermometer if not part of the thermostat-got it. I see what you mean about price, though. Although I can see no ZooMed prices, their equipment looks to be about $20-$30 (analogue thermometer and huimidity gauge) versus Reptile Basics which would run $100 for each! So this, I am guessing, would work:
http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/EntryDetail.php?
EntryID=171&DatabaseID=2&SearchID=1&SearchContext=YTo1OntzOjQ6IlBhZ2UiO3M6MToiMSI7czo4OiJTZWFyY2hJRCI7czoxOiIxIjtzOjEwOiJEYXRhYmFzZUlEIjtzOjE6IjIiO3M6NzoiSGVhZGluZyI7czo5OiJUZXJyYXJpdW0iO3M6MTU6IlByb2R1Y3RDYXRlZ29yeSI7czo3OiJIZWF0aW5nIjt9
Hmmm, I was thinking 5 gallon only as snake was small... trust me, I see how quickly snakes grow! I also am aware that you have to get an appropriately sized tank as not to stress the animal. so a square foot for each foot of snake, as a general rule? Hmm, wonder how this applies to a baby... I like your Sterilite idea... two of the snakes arrived in one of these and I am currently drilling holes in another to give my king snake a larger home... but is there not a danger with UTH pads and the plastic? (asking because I am experimenting with infa red bulbs on other tanks and my light seriously distorted the plastic of my ball python's enclosure). Also, ZooMed states not to use their pads underneath plastic or acrylic :(
I like your cleaning, Jenn. Sounds like me. I use paper towel and spot clean... when they poop I usually take them out, wipe up the mess, and sterilize with alcohol (I wait until all the smell evaporates before placing the animal back in). I tend to not wash tanks often, but not require humidity except during sheds. I will play with substrates. Want my new one to be able to burrow and feel safe, but would like to see him occasionally too! Maybe I won't, though. I am okay with boring environments. When I first got the snakes, I was incensed at how "boring" their homes were. The one arboreal one has stuff to climb. Otherwise, snake psychology dictates the importance of a good hide, decorations seem important for the human.
So I think that answers my questions! I will have to be VERY strict with myself about handling. The good thing is, I will not be willing to let a baby wander off (I ignore my ball python when she crawls off of me and finds somewhere near by to hide, just keep an eye on her). But yeah, short and consistent handling helps them acclimatize to humans. I am not a predator, really.
Thanks so much. Got some work ahead of me :D
PS I know they are shy, to the EXTREME, but my friend also told me a story about how she knew someone with a BRB who didn't realize it had died until it began to smell because of it's tendency to hide.... responses to this?
|
|
|
|
IncurableFlirt
Yearling
USA
516 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2012 : 17:32:44
|
I have not had a problem with any of my UTHs catching fire (though I did worry about the buzzing Zoo Med one and unplugged it immediately, then exchanged it at the store I bought it from for a new one), but it isn't unheard of. The most important thing I can stress to you is that getting a thermostat is a must for each of your heat pads. While you might think they aren't getting too hot, you would be mortified by the temperatures if you ever placed a thermometer over the uncontrolled heat source. You can purchase thermostats that allow several different devices to be plugged into it, or you can go with something as simple as Hydro Farms, which are made for one single heat source. Once you have the heat source controlled, you do not need to worry about it melting most plastics because it turns the heat pad off once it reaches your desired temp.
As to the link you provided, definitely a no. Those dial hygrometer/thermometer units are very unreliable and give you just a general reading of the upper ambient setting. You need a thermometer/hygrometer setup that provides you with a probe that can be placed DIRECTLY over/under the area you are wanting to monitor (aka, where the heat pad will be). My setup has a long probe that I place under my tank, right below the heating pad (I keep my tanks elevated, to promote good airflow for the heat pad) so that I know exactly how hot it is getting in that spot before I allow the thermostat to shut it off. With the hygrometer probe, it goes into the tank and I place it in the middle near the back wall, so I can monitor what my humidity is close to the ground (where Marius will be). For those probes that double as a thermometer/hygrometer, I would suggest keeping it in the tank as close to the heat source as you possibly can.
Now then, even as a baby, I really do think a 5 gallon would be too small. I might be wrong on the dimensions (I am horrible with measurements and whatnot), but I remember Marius as a little tiny baby and I wouldn't have kept him in such a small space. I am hoping that Cliff or CDN can come along and maybe give you some better advice on tub sizes (and tank sizes, too), because I really am bad at that part. I put Marius into a 32 quart Under-Bed Sterilite tub when I first brought him home. He had TONS of room to roam about in, but I also filled up a lot of his space with damp Sphagnum moss, several different hides and an assortment of plastic vine plants. I never had a problem with him not eating or feeling insecure.
Just realized I forgot to mention, here in the States, Zoo-Med products are pretty closely priced with Exo-Terra stuff. Reptile Basics is a lot more expensive on their stuff, but it is really good, quality stuff (as are numerous other reptile supplies stores online). Not that you can't get good quality stuff from Zoo-Med (I use a lot of their products without negative results). As for your Exo-Terra small pad, I don't know what to tell you other than be careful with it. It, too, can overheat if not controlled by a thermostat.
And finally, BRBs are shy snakes, but if you don't see yours out and about after quite a few days, then a welfare check on the critter is definitely in order. Most snakes will remain mostly immobile to digest and whatnot, but the majority of them do get up and explore/move about after that (BRBs are most active during nighttime hours). Plus, if their setups are perfect temp/humidity wise, the snake should move back and forth between hot and cold side to thermoregulate. If you aren't seeing them do this, it is time to check your setup and make sure that your thermometer/hygrometer is working properly and then make certain your snake isn't showing signs of illness or discomfort. :) |
Jenn.
11.8 Ball pythons
1.0 BCI boa
1.0 Brazilian Rainbow boa |
|
|
|
Snakesitter
Rainbow Master
USA
2718 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2012 : 21:04:19
|
Welcome to the forum, Spugy!
Jenn and Jeff, great advice as always. I have only a few tidbits to add.
For viv size, you should give a bay at least two square feet of floor space, a juvenile four, and adult six…but more is always better. If you go larger, just make sure to add extra hiding places.
When using plexiglass to cover a glass tank’s top, drill only a (very) few holes in the lid at first, as you can easily add more but taking them away is tough.
Substrate is fine to change monthly or even quarterly so long you police it regularly. “Spot clean” it daily (meaning, take out any poops), and smell-test it monthly. Sometimes it will pass, sometimes not -- if the latter, change it. If it stays fresh, change it quarterly regardless.
A longer period of handling will not stress the animal from a temp or humidity standpoint (unless outside in bright summer sun), but may stress it in terms of patience. Listen to what the animals says -- if it spends every moment after ten minutes trying to escape, then put it back! Its tolerance will increase with time and gentle, slow handling.
Good luck! |
Cliff Earle
Living Gems Reptiles
Premium Brazilian Rainbow Boas from a disease-tested facility
Website, Facebook |
|
|
|
Topic |
|
|
|
Hi all - many questions
